Both AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHA’s (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are chemical exfoliants that help speed up skin cell turnover by removing dead skin cells. However, they work differently and are suited for different skin concerns.
Skin Cell Turnover: Why It Matters
Skin cell turnover is the process of shedding old, dead skin cells and replacing them with fresh, new ones. When we’re young, this happens every 28 days, keeping the skin smooth and radiant. As we age, turnover slows down, leading to dullness, fine lines, and clogged pores. Exfoliants like AHA’s and BHA’s help accelerate this process.
What is AHA?
AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are water-soluble acids that work on the surface of the skin to dissolve dead skin cells. They are best for dry, dull, or aging skin because they exfoliate while also helping to retain moisture.
Common AHA’s and Their Benefits:
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Glycolic Acid – The strongest AHA, deeply exfoliates and boosts collagen.
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Lactic Acid – A milder option that exfoliates while hydrating the skin.
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Mandelic Acid – A gentle AHA that helps with hyperpigmentation and is great for sensitive skin.
Benefits of AHA’s:
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Exfoliate dead skin cells for a brighter, smoother complexion
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Boost collagen production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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Improve skin texture and tone
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Increase hydration, making them ideal for dry skin
What is BHA?
BHA’s (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are oil-soluble, meaning they can penetrate deep into pores to remove excess oil, clear breakouts, and prevent congestion. They are ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.
Common BHA and Its Benefits:
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Salicylic Acid – The most popular BHA, known for its ability to unclog pores, reduce acne, and calm inflammation.
Benefits of BHAs:
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Clear clogged pores and reduce blackheads
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Control excess oil production
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Calm redness and inflammation, making them great for acne-prone skin
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Help prevent future breakouts
Which One Should You Choose?
For both AHA’s and BHA’s, how often each is used is key to not over-drying the skin. Depending on the % concentration (AKA the strength) of the acid being applied, most AHA’s are safe to use up to 2-3 times per week. BHA's can be used once to twice daily, depending also on the concentration of the acid and how oily your skin is.
If you start to experience redness or irritation as well as over drying of the skin, stop the AHA or BHA and minimize the usage to the absolute minimal recommended usage per the product label.
If you have dry, dull, or aging skin, AHA’s are the better option because they exfoliate while maintaining hydration. If you have oily, acne-prone skin, BHA’s work best because they can go deeper into the pores to remove excess oil and prevent breakouts.
For combination skin, you can use both—AHA’s for dry areas and BHA’s for oily, acne-prone zones like the T-zone. If using them together, start on alternate days or use one in the morning and the other at night to avoid irritation. And always wear sunscreen, as exfoliation makes the skin more sensitive to UV damage.
At Emogene & Co., we believe in gentle yet effective exfoliation. Here are some of our recommended products:
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Resurfacing Enzyme Face Mask: Contains natural pomegranate, pineapple & papaya enzymes to brighten, exfoliate, and even skin tone. These are skin-soothing enzymes making it a safe option for all skin types.
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Renew Facial Toner: Our 0.75% salicylic acid (BHA) which is a safe concentration for all skin types. It’s formulated with White Willow bark extract (A natural source of salicylic acid); Witch Hazel, a naturally-derived astringent with anti-inflammatory properties while removing excess oil; and Glycerin, a humectant that restores skin's moisture while decreasing skin dryness.
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Nashville Skin Date Night Pads: A strong once weekly AHA pads that leave your skin looking like glass by reducing the appearance of pores and calming redness in the skin.
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Paula's Choice 2% SA Astringent: A stronger strength of SA for overly oily / acne prone skin that penetrates pores to clear blemish-causing buildup and shed dead skin. It also includes Green Tea Extract which is a potent antioxidant to calm redness & soothe skin barrier, and Methylpropanediol that Hydrates and prevents water loss while visibly improving skin’s glow.
Understanding the difference between AHA’s and BHA’s can help you choose the right exfoliant for your skin’s needs. Whether you’re looking to boost hydration and radiance with AHA’s or clear congestion and control oil with BHA’s, safe and conservative consistency is the key. A well-balanced exfoliation routine can transform your skin, reveal a smoother, healthier texture, and help the rest of your routine absorb better and work harder for a glowing, makeup-ready complexion. Explore Emogene & Co.'s carefully crafted formulas to find the perfect exfoliant for your skincare journey!
